The 10-step Korean skincare routine is one of the most talked-about frameworks in beauty. It sounds intimidating — ten products, ten steps, applied in a specific order, twice a day. But the reality is more forgiving than the reputation suggests. The routine is not a rigid prescription. It is a system, and systems can be adapted.
This guide breaks down all ten steps: what each one does, why it exists, and how it connects to the steps around it. By the end, you will understand not just what to use — but why the order matters, which steps you can start with, and how to build toward the full routine at a pace that actually works for your skin.
Step 1: Oil Cleanser — Remove the Day
The routine begins with an oil-based cleanser. Its job is singular and important: dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and sebum. These are all oil-soluble impurities, and water alone cannot touch them effectively. Oil cleanser is applied to a completely dry face — no water, no damp skin — and massaged in gently for about 30 seconds. Then you add a small amount of lukewarm water, emulsify, and rinse.
Oil cleansers come in several formats: liquid oils, balms, and sticks. Balms are the most popular in the Korean routine because they are mess-free, travel well, and give you enough friction to massage properly. The texture should feel silky and smooth on the skin — if it feels heavy or greasy after rinsing, it is not the right one for you. Browse the full range in the Step 1 oil cleanser collection to find the format that suits your skin best.
Do I need an oil cleanser if I do not wear makeup?
Yes. Sunscreen alone is reason enough — it is oil-soluble and does not rinse cleanly with water. Sebum, environmental pollutants, and even the oils your skin produces throughout the day are all removed more effectively by an oil cleanser than by a water-based one. The double cleanse is not about makeup. It is about starting the evening with genuinely clean skin.
Step 2: Water Cleanser — Finish the Cleanse
After the oil cleanser has lifted the surface-level impurities, a water-based cleanser removes whatever is left — residue from the oil cleanser, sweat, dust, and anything water-soluble. This is where foam, gel, or milk cleansers come in. They work on damp skin, are used briefly, and rinsed with lukewarm water.
The key here is gentleness. A water cleanser should not leave your skin feeling tight or squeaky. If it does, it is stripping your skin's natural lipids, which means it is too harsh for daily use. Korean water cleansers tend to be formulated at a lower pH than Western ones — closer to the skin's natural acidity — which makes them less disruptive to the barrier. The Step 2 water cleanser collection is a good starting point for finding a gentle, pH-balanced formula.
Can I skip the water cleanser and just rinse after the oil cleanser?
Some people do, and it works for them — especially if their oil cleanser emulsifies well and their skin does not feel congested. But for most skin types, the water cleanser is worth keeping. It cleans a different category of impurity, and it gives the skin a more thorough starting point for the rest of the routine.
Step 3: Exfoliant — Renew the Surface
Exfoliation is the step that most people either skip entirely or overdo. In the Korean routine, it is intentionally gentle and infrequent — once or twice a week at most. The goal is not to scrub dead skin off. It is to encourage the skin's natural cell turnover so that products absorb better and the complexion stays even.
Chemical exfoliants — AHAs like glycolic acid for the surface, BHAs like salicylic acid for inside the pore — are the preferred method in Korean skincare. They are more precise than physical scrubs and far less likely to cause micro-damage. Use them in the evening, after your water cleanser and before toner. Give your skin at least a day between uses until you know how it responds. The Step 3 exfoliant collection has options for every sensitivity level.
How often should I exfoliate?
Start with once a week. If your skin tolerates it well — no redness, no irritation, no increased sensitivity — you can move to twice a week. More than that is unnecessary for most people and can actually weaken the barrier over time. Listen to what your skin is doing, not what the packaging suggests.
Step 4: Toner — Reset and Prepare
After cleansing, your skin's pH has shifted slightly upward. Toner brings it back down to its natural range and creates the first layer of hydration. In Korean skincare, toner is not the harsh, alcohol-based product that older Western routines used. It is lightweight, gentle, and designed to make the skin more receptive to every product that follows.
The best Korean toners are built around hydrating ingredients — hyaluronic acid, plant extracts, fermented rice water — and absorb in seconds. The skin should feel slightly damp after application, not wet. This is the state it needs to be in before you layer anything else. Apply toner by pouring a small amount into your palms and patting it gently onto your face. Avoid cotton pads where possible — they absorb product and can be rougher than your hands.
Is toner really necessary, or is it just an extra step?
It is necessary — but not because it is doing heavy lifting alone. Toner is a preparation layer. Hydrated skin absorbs actives better than dry skin. Toner gets your skin to that slightly receptive, slightly damp state before you apply anything concentrated. Without it, your essence and serum are starting from a less effective baseline.
Step 5: Essence — Support the Barrier
Essence is one of the steps that makes the Korean routine genuinely different from Western skincare. It sits between toner and serum — more concentrated than a toner, more watery than a serum — and its role is to deliver a targeted layer of hydration and active ingredients while the skin is still open and receptive from the toner step. Fermented extracts, ceramide complexes, and botanical actives are common in Korean essences, and the textures are designed to absorb quickly without heaviness.
Essence is particularly important for skin that feels tight, dull, or prone to dryness. It is the layer that makes everything after it work better. The Step 5 essence and emulsion collection covers both formats — essences for the hydration-and-barrier layer, and emulsions for a slightly richer, cream-like alternative.
What is the difference between essence and emulsion?
Essences are watery and focused on hydration and skin prep. Emulsions are lighter than a full cream but richer than an essence — they sit between essence and moisturiser in the layering sequence. Some routines use both; others use one or the other depending on skin type and season. Dry skin tends to benefit from both. Oily skin may only need the essence.
Step 6: Serum — Target Your Concerns
This is where the routine gets specific. Serums are the most concentrated products in the sequence — they contain the highest levels of active ingredients and are designed to penetrate deeper than anything else you apply. Niacinamide for brightening, peptides for firmness, hyaluronic acid for deep hydration, vitamin C for antioxidant protection — whatever your skin needs most, there is a serum built around it.
Layer serums from thin to thick. If you are using more than one, apply the lightest first, let it absorb for a few seconds, then apply the next. Press the product into the skin with your fingertips — do not rub. The Step 6 serum and ampoule collection has options for every concern, from anti-aging peptides to brightening actives.
Can I use more than one serum at the same time?
Yes — but be mindful of compatibility. Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid layer beautifully together. Vitamin C and retinoids do not — they can destabilise each other and irritate skin. If you are unsure, use one in the morning and the other at night. Two serums at most in a single routine is a reasonable limit for most people.
Step 7: Sheet Mask — Weekly Intensive
Sheet masks are not a daily step — they are a weekly treatment. They work by sitting on the skin for 15 to 20 minutes and delivering a concentrated dose of hydration and actives through a fabric sheet that keeps the ingredients pressed against the skin and prevents evaporation. The result is a visible, immediate softness and glow that lasts for hours.
Sheet masks fit into the routine after serum and before moisturiser. Use them once or twice a week, depending on how your skin responds. Do not squeeze out the excess liquid and throw it away — pat the remaining essence into your skin or use it on your neck and hands. The Step 7 sheet mask collection has masks for every skin type and concern.
Do I need to do anything special after a sheet mask?
Just follow it with your moisturiser. The sheet mask has already delivered a high concentration of hydration and actives — your moisturiser seals everything in and prevents it from evaporating. Do not wash your face after a sheet mask. The residue on your skin is the product doing its job.
Step 8: Eye Cream — The Delicate Zone
The skin around your eyes is the thinnest on your face — roughly four times thinner than the skin on your cheeks. It loses firmness and moisture faster, shows fine lines earlier, and reacts more quickly to irritation. Eye cream is formulated specifically for this area: richer, gentler, and designed to address puffiness, dark circles, and the first signs of fine lines without disrupting the delicate skin around the eye.
Apply eye cream with your ring finger — it is the weakest finger on your hand, which means less pressure on the skin. Pat it gently around the orbital bone, not directly on the eyelid. A pea-sized amount is all you need. Use it morning and evening, as the last step before moisturiser. The Step 8 eye cream collection has options for every eye concern.
Can I just use my regular moisturiser around my eyes instead?
You can, but it is not ideal. Regular moisturisers are often too heavy for the eye area and may contain ingredients — fragrances, certain actives — that irritate delicate skin. Eye creams are formulated to be lighter, gentler, and more targeted. If you are dealing with puffiness, dark circles, or early crow's feet, a dedicated eye cream will do a better job than a face cream.
Step 9: Moisturiser — Lock Everything In
Moisturiser is the step that holds the entire routine together. Everything you have applied before it — toner, essence, serum, eye cream — is vulnerable to evaporation and environmental stress until moisturiser seals it in. Without this layer, even the best serums in the world will underperform, because the hydration they deliver will simply escape overnight or throughout the day.
The texture of your moisturiser should match your skin type and the season. Gel creams work well for oily or combination skin — they hydrate without adding heaviness. Richer creams are better for dry skin, especially in colder months. The goal is to feel balanced and slightly dewy — not greasy, not tight. The Step 9 moisturiser collection has options for every skin type.
Do I need a night cream, or is a regular moisturiser enough?
A regular moisturiser works fine for most people, most nights. Night creams are simply richer versions — they take advantage of the fact that your skin is in repair mode while you sleep. If your skin feels dry in the morning despite moisturising at night, a richer night cream may help. But it is not a necessity — it is an upgrade.
Step 10: Sunscreen — The Non-Negotiable Finale
Sunscreen is the single most important step in the morning routine.** UV damage is the number one cause of premature aging — it breaks down collagen, causes pigmentation, and undoes the work of every other product in your routine. Korean sunscreens have made this step genuinely enjoyable: they are lightweight, absorb without white cast, and layer seamlessly under makeup.
Apply sunscreen as the very last step of your morning routine, after moisturiser. Use enough — two to three fingers' worth across your face and neck. Reapply every two hours if you are outdoors. In the evening, sunscreen is replaced by your serum and moisturiser, and the cycle begins again. The Step 10 sunscreen collection has options for every skin type, from lightweight gel formulas to creamy textures that double as a base for makeup.
Do I need sunscreen even on cloudy days?
Yes. Up to 80% of UV radiation penetrates cloud cover. Indoor lighting and screens also emit a small amount of visible light that can contribute to skin damage over time. Sunscreen every morning, regardless of the weather, is the single easiest thing you can do to protect your skin long-term.
Bonus: Step 11 — The Overnight Treatment
Some Korean routines extend beyond ten steps with an overnight treatment — a richer, more intensive product applied as the very last step before bed. Overnight masks, sleeping packs, and lifting creams fall into this category. They take advantage of the skin's natural repair cycle during sleep, delivering nutrients and actives that work while you rest. Not everyone needs this step every night — it is best used two to three times a week, or on nights when your skin feels particularly dry or stressed. The Step 11 overnight treatment collection has options for every skin type.
The Full Routine — Morning vs Evening
The morning and evening routines are not the same. The evening routine is about deep cleansing and repair. The morning routine is about hydration, protection, and preparing the skin for the day. Here is how the ten steps map across both.
| Step | Morning | Evening |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Oil Cleanser | Skip | Yes — first cleanser |
| 2. Water Cleanser | Gentle rinse or light cleanser | Yes — second cleanser |
| 3. Exfoliant | No | 1–2× per week only |
| 4. Toner | Yes | Yes |
| 5. Essence | Yes | Yes |
| 6. Serum | Light serum | Full treatment serum |
| 7. Sheet Mask | No | 1–2× per week |
| 8. Eye Cream | Yes | Yes |
| 9. Moisturiser | Lighter texture | Richer cream |
| 10. Sunscreen | Always — final step | Not needed |
Three Products. Three Key Steps.
A ten-step routine is only as good as the products carrying each step. The three products below represent the beginning, the middle, and the end of the routine — and each one shows what well-made Korean skincare looks like in practice.
Heimish All Clean Balm — Step 1, Done Properly
The Heimish All Clean Balm is one of the most reliable oil cleansers in the Korean routine. It starts as a solid balm and transforms into a silky oil the moment it contacts skin — dissolving makeup, sunscreen, and sebum without tugging or drying. The formula is built on shea butter and coconut extract, enriched with ten natural essential oils including tea tree, lavender, and bergamot for a gentle aromatic experience. It is EVE Vegan certified, tested for zero skin irritation, and free from mineral oil, parabens, and added fragrance. The included spatula makes it hygienic and mess-free. It is gentle enough for sensitive skin and the eye area, and it rinses cleanly — no residue, no tightness. For the first step of any Korean routine, it sets exactly the right tone.
DA99 Overnight Lifting Eye Cream — Step 8, Taken Seriously
The DA99 Overnight Lifting Eye Cream is built around a patented thread-lifting technology that creates a lightweight support barrier on the skin as it absorbs. This is not a standard moisturising eye cream — it is a treatment. The formula contains Coenzyme Q10 for antioxidant protection and cellular energy, adenosine for anti-wrinkle action, vegetable collagen for structure, and ginseng berry extract for nourishment. Five types of naturally derived fermentation ingredients — including green tea and Lactobacillus ferments — support skin tone and brightness. It is designed to be used at night: apply a small amount, let it fully absorb, and sleep. The lifting barrier works while you rest, smoothing fine lines and improving firmness around the eye area over time. Results are gradual — the brand recommends at least three months of consistent use for visible improvement.
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF 50+ PA++++ — Step 10, No Compromises
The Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun is the sunscreen that made Korean SPF genuinely appealing to people who had given up on the category. It contains 30% rice extract — rich in ferulic acid, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals — which brightens and soothes while the sunscreen filters do their job. A complex of grain probiotics supports the skin's microbiome and barrier function. The texture is a lightweight cream that absorbs without white cast, without pilling, and without the greasy feeling that heavier sunscreens leave behind. It layers seamlessly under makeup and feels like a moisturiser that happens to protect your skin. SPF 50+ PA++++ means broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB. It is the last step of the morning routine — and it is the one that matters most.
How to Actually Start
You do not need to do all ten steps on day one. That is the most common mistake people make with the Korean routine — they try to implement everything at once, get overwhelmed, and drop it within a week. The smarter approach is to build gradually. Start with four steps: oil cleanser, water cleanser, toner, moisturiser, and SPF. Use this for two weeks. Once it feels automatic, add essence. Then serum. Then eye cream. Then, when you are ready, the weekly steps — exfoliant and sheet mask.
The order matters more than the number of products. Thin layers first, heavier layers after. Pat, do not rub. Give each product a few seconds to absorb before moving to the next. And be consistent — results in Korean skincare come from daily repetition, not from using more products. The routine will feel complete long before you reach ten steps, and that is exactly how it is supposed to work.
Frequently Asked Questions
